Long Range FPV Racing Drone – Part 1 Build

by Jose

Hi everyone, my name is Mirko, and today we are going to see how to a long range drone. I thought of this that tried to cut costs without sacrificing reliability. in the description you will find all the links and their ratings. For a long range , the ideal frames are those with the battery on top. In this way we have enough space to conveniently install all components. The diagonal must be at least 250 mm so that 6 "propellers can be mounted. I chose this realacc X6R because it offers good design solutions at low cost. The ideal motors for a long range quad are those with a low Kv value. which brings us more efficiency and longer flight times. I took this 1600kv Racerstar BR2207S because they have a very interesting price point.

I have used different engines of this brand in the past and have never had any problems. I combined the motors with KingKong 6040 double blade propellers. I have chosen an OMNIBUS F4 V3 as an air traffic controller, with more standard functions such as F4 processor, OSD etc. The ESCs of this build will be the Racerstar Rev35, aren't the best, but for this type of build they're more than good. The camera I chose is a Caddx Turbo Micro S2 while the VTX is an AKK Ultimate X2. with its 1200mW power is ideal for a quad long range. A 900mHZ module cannot be missing for the long range, in this build I will use the R9M.

Another must-have long-range accessory is the GPS, I'll be using the M8N. To build a quad, you can't overlook the fact that heat shrink heaters come in a variety of sizes. Screws and various spacers will also come in handy. We also use cutters, tweezers and various screwdrivers to help us with the construction. We start by attaching the ESCs to the frame, I use metal screws and nylon nuts and washers, If you want to deepen this system, you can follow my guide. by clicking on the tab at the top right or in the description. Now we are connecting the motors to the ESCs, as you can see the cables are too short. In this case we can choose to extend the wire or use the Racewiere. I'll be using Racewire in this build. Cut the wires and secure the running wire between the motor and the cut wires. Then I isolate everything with a heat shrink filter. For more information on using the Racewire, please see my at the tab at the top right or in the description. Once the motors are done we are ready to attach them to the frame.

Let's make sure that the screws are not too long. If the screw touches the filaments of the stator, it comes into contact with the carbon, and the engines get too hot. If you use these motors and frame, you won't have any problems with the long screws that came with it. We connect the motor cables to the ESC4 pads in 1, cut the wires to size and then solder them together. Let's add a capacitor to get a clean video signal. and prevent voltage peaks from damaging the system. The capacitor needs to be LOW ESR which is from 470uF to 35V. We also have to pay attention to the polarity when assembling the capacitor. The negative is indicated by this strip with the smallest leg, the positive with the longest leg. I prepare the capacitor this way, then I balance it in the ESC 4in1. I use heat shrink tubing and tape to secure it to the frame. Now we connect the air traffic controller to the ESCs. I have already prepared the cables by cutting the signal cables to 3cm and the power cables to 5cm.

I removed the current sensor wire because I won't be using it in this build. We connect ESCs according to this scheme, in the description I leave you the links to all the schemes that you will see in this video. The power supply should be connected in these two pads, we connect the earth below and the plus above. The signal cables are connected in this row. We have Motor 1, Motor 2, Motor 3, and Motor 4. In the ESCs we have motors 1, 2, 3 and 4. After soldering the wires, we put the air traffic controller in the pile. Let's connect the CAMERA to the frame. Use a screwdriver to widen the hole in the bracket slightly so that an M3 screw can go through it. We put the bracket in this position, with the nut underneath. Let's attach the camera to the bracket. Let's cut the camera cable to 6 cm. We connect the camera according to this scheme. You will also find the link for this in the description. The camera wire needs to be soldered into these three pads above.

We have mass, positive and signal. I bridged these two pads here to power the battery directly. to the camera and VTX. Because both the camera and the vtx can receive an input voltage of up to 6S batteries. I also installed the capacitor that protects the CAM from voltage spikes. So what. Done perfectly. Now we connect the VTX, I will remove the 5V and GND cables as I will be supplying power to the camera directly from the air traffic controller. I cut the power and signal cables to 5 cm and the smartAudio cable to 7 cm. I connect the VTX according to this scheme, the link is also here in the description.

We connect the earth, the positive and the signal in these pads. The SmartAudio cable must be connected to this pad, this is the TX3. Let's leave the cable lying around for now without connecting the VTX. First we need to connect the GPS and the receiver. We prepare the cable to connect the GPS to the quad, I decided to put it next to the number one engine. Then I cut the wire down to 8cm. I make the connections according to this scheme, I want to remind you that RX and TX need to be switched backwards. Then GPS RX with air traffic controller TX and GPS TX with air traffic controller RX. I put the GPS on my arm and secured it with double sided tape and a tape. After pretreating the controller wires and pads, I balance the cables according to the diagram.

I am now connecting the R9 Slim. I only kept the power, SBUS-OUT and ground wires. I will display the RSSI and battery voltage right on the OSD. so I don't have to connect the telemetry. I will also be using the FrSky dipole antenna instead of this material, before attaching it to the receiver, i attach it to the frame. As you can see I ran the wire this way and secured the receiver with a clamp. Now I connect the cables in this series of pads, we have SBUS, power supply and ground.

Now we're going to attach the VTX to the frame, I'm using this carbon post that needs to be bought separately. Before placing the antenna, only insulate the metal part with shrink tubing. After I connected it to the VTX and attached it to the frame. We're done, our quad is done, and all we need is the top plate. I've already attached Velcro to the battery and tightened the straps. all we have to do is attach it to the frame.

Finally we installed the propellers. Perfect, our Quadro is ready. This was my on how to assemble a long range quad, in the next one we will see how to do all the configurations on Betaflight. Thanks for watching the video, don't forget to subscribe to the channel and set it as I like. If you want, you can also support me at Patreon by clicking the link at the end of the video..

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